New Restaurant: Mama's Crackles

By Lena Gidwani, January 27, 2017

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Like all good, authentic Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches, the crispy pork version at Mama’s Crackles is crunchy, sweet, slightly spicy, sour, salty and luscious all at the same time. And for just a modest sum of RMB20, you get to ingest Vietnam’s delectable history and culture. 

Tucked away in the lane right behind the Kodak shop on Xingsheng Lu is this little-known spot, not much more than a hole in the wall with only the essentials. We’ve walked past it a number of times, even stopped by along our drunken stupors, but never had the chance to savor Van’s homemade creations. 

Van, the young and handsome local proprietor of Mama’s Crackles, lived in Sydney for a decade, and when he needed a quick bite, he resorted to what he loved the most: a filling banh mi, and a piping hot pho to wash it down. 

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Mama’s Crackles feels homely and real; just don’t expect to sit as there are only a couple of plastic stools that masquerade as seating. But not to fret, Mama delivers within a one-kilometer radius until 9.30pm.

Everything here is cooked to order, and the bread is sourced from supplier that makes it just the way it should be. Try the lemongrass chicken for just a mere RMB18. Marinated so the flavors are retained, the protein is cooked quickly till white and succulent. A slater of butter, Van’s special sauce and chicken pate follows, and it’s then stuffed with pickled shredded carrots made daily at home by Van’s mother, cilantro, spring onion, cucumber and a thick slice of ham. Vegetarians should opt for the mixed mushrooms with black truffle oil and melted mozzarella. Enough said.

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Like all good beef pho, the key is in the broth, usually filled with fatty flank for maximum depth of flavor. Van lifts the cover to pour the broth in a bowl packed with thin rice noodles, fresh herbs, just-cooked sliced beef and chili, and immediately, the cold air is filled. It’s rich and distinctively peppery, and every bite sates.

For a place this quaint, one can only wonder how it all happens, but it does, and therein lies the magic. Mama Crackles makes one believe that yes, anyone can cook. All you need is a dream… and mama’s homemade chicken pate and pickled carrots.

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Price: RMB20
Who’s going: neighborhood folks, budget-conscious travelers
Good for: authentic (and cheap) pho, warm bites

See listing for Mama's Crackles.

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